Original Portuguese Egg Tarts and Secret Chinese Food in Lisbon

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– This beef dish looks
particularly awesome.
Oh, I think that’s all sichuan pepper.
(samba music)
Good morning, everyone.
It’s Mark Wiens with migrationology.com.
It’s a beautiful morning in Lisbon.
We are walking to the Metro,
we’re gonna take the Metro and
then we’re gonna take a tram.
And we are on our way to Belém.
Just got off the Metro at Cais do Sodré,
and we should be able to take the tram
or train from right here.
We ended up waiting at the tram stop
for, I think, almost 45 minutes.
So it’s, so much for trying
to get an early start.
(uplifting music)
Once we got onto the tram,
that took about 20 minutes, I think.
Francois is worried from the one.
– [Ying] Mm-hmm.
– Francois sells the best one
– (Ying laughs)
– It’s not the best imitation of this one.
– [Waiter] One tart, one chocolate donut,
and uh cappuccino,
– Cappuccino.
and two coffees, right?
– Yes.
Our first stop this morning
is the legendary Pastéis de Belém,
which is maybe one of the
most well-known places
in all of Portugal, and
maybe in the entire world,
for Portuguese egg tarts.
And Portuguese egg tarts
are famous the world over,
from Macao to even in Thailand.
Did they have it on, did they
have it on KFC in Thailand?
I think
– Yeah, yeah.
– They also have it at KFC in Thailand.
But Portuguese egg tarts,
we’re about to have our
first one so far in Lisbon,
and a cup of coffee.
They have both take-away and sit in,
and, luckily, we are here early enough
where we just got a table
and got to sample this
world famous egg tart.
Thank you.
– [Waiter] One, two.
– [Ying] (laughs) Thank you.
– [Waiter] This one’s cinnamon and sugar.
– The Pastéi de Belém has arrived.
Ying and I got one, and then we also got
a chocolate-filled Portuguese donut.
And then I knew one coffee
would not be enough,
so I went ahead and ordered
two at the same time.
I better begin with the egg tart.
And, by the way, this
place dates back to 1837.
And before I take a bite,
I just want to point out
that flaky, crispy
crust on the edges here.
Looks like little layers of pastry.
And then it has this
slightly yellow, golden,
and slightly browned top,
little crust on that egg tart.
(crunchy bite)
Oh, wow.
That is the best egg tart I’ve had.
What’s really awesome about that egg tart
is actually the crust, the outer wrapping,
which is incredibly crispy.
And then it has a salty
flavor to it, as well,
which contrasts the pudding-like
egg tart in the center,
which is sweet.
Okay, let me follow that
with a sip of coffee.
Good combination.
That combination of the crispy crust
with the warm, gooey pudding-like interior
is a, yeah, that is a pair.
– [Ying] Bite, bite.
– Bite it, huh?
Just look how much chocolate
is filled into there.
You can feel the bread isn’t that light
because there’s so much density
of chocolate in the middle.
Yeah, this is like a
little chocolate hamburger.
Mmmmm, mmm.
That chocolate is really good.
Really rich and smooth.
It has a really strong chocolate flavor.
And the bread is really fluffy and soft.
And then it’s coated in sugar.
Coffee number two.
When Ying and I came to this place,
we just sat down at the
nearest table we could find,
which was right near the entrance.
But I just went to use the restroom,
and this place is huge.
There are just, like, multiple
rooms filled with tables.
I can see hundreds of people.
You can actually get lost back here.
This place is huge.
And there are antiques around.
You can smell the egg
tarts and the coffee.
I’m trying to find my
way back to our table.
But you would never know how
big this place actually is
from just looking at it from the outside.
One thing that I should mention is that
Ying and I just split one
egg tart and also that
Portuguese donut and had some coffee,
but I’m not really too much into sweets.
If I just have a couple
of bites of sweets,
that’s good for me.
However, most people eating there
I think they were eating
two to five, per person.
So, definitely, if you love sweets,
you’re gonna wanna eat a couple
of those egg tarts when you come.
We’re walking past Jerónimo’s Monastery
which I’ll come back to.
But I wanted to go first
check out the Torre de Belém,
which is the Belém Tower.
That strong ring light.
(Ying laughs)
– [Ying] (speaks in foreign language)
Behind the scene.
– Behind the scenes.
Oh, Ying, we need a video
about behind the scenes.
(uplifting music)
Belém is a section of Lisbon.
And when you come to Belém
one of the top things to do
is to visit the Tower of
Belém, which is a fortified
military tower which was
built on the mouth of the
Tagus River and completed in 1519.
It is a Unesco World Heritage site.
The tower is built mostly of limestone,
and it 30 meters in
height, a four-story tower.
And because the spaces inside
are so tight and so small,
they only allow 150
people to enter at a time.
So that’s why it can
take some time to get in.
I’m making my way up the
narrow spiral staircase now.
93 steps, it is spiral stone staircase,
and now at the top, some
great view of the bridge
and of the Tagus River.
Yeah, this is nice.
(uplifting music)
Tight squeeze here.
Tryin’ to get a lookout from
this little lookout tower.
This is an awesome place to chill.
What I really liked was the architecture
as well as the stonework.
It’s very impressive.
What I didn’t like were the
long lines and the crowds.
But that was cool to see.
And now I need to find Ying.
Ying decided to wait it
out in this park right here
because she doesn’t like waiting in lines
or crowds of people, so she
decided to just let me go in.
And she’s somewhere relaxing in this park
in the shade somewhere.
Oh ho ho ho.
– So nice, so nice.
– [Mark] Relaxing to the max.
Your shoes are off.
– So nice.
– [Mark] How is Ying?
– Yeah yeah.
– We are now walking back
towards Jerónimo’s Monastery,
which is the place we’re gonna visit next.
But I have to tell you
guys that I’m having
a little bit of a
challenging time in Portugal
finding restaurants to eat at.
Not because there’s a lack of restaurants,
but because I think it has
to do with the fact that
we’re here on the weekend,
so today is a Sunday.
But, many of the restaurants
that I had on my list
that many of you recommended
are all closed on Sunday.
(uplifting music)
And again this is a very
impressive architectural wonder,
and there’s a huge crowd standing outside.
The monastery was commissioned
and built in the late 1400s
to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s route
of the discovery to India.
Built in Manueline architectural style.
And I can just imagine at
the time that it was built
it must have been a showcase of the power
and the influence of Portugal.
We just waited in line for over an hour
in the hot sun, finally got our tickets.
Phsew, that was a long, long wait.
But we have finally gotten inside.
This is the cloister area, and it is, wow.
It’s beautiful, actually.
The architecture, the stonework,
the courtyard in the middle
and the garden and the fountain.
(bright music)
It measures 55 meters by
55 meters with two stories,
so I’m about to go up to the upper level.
But the detail of the
stonework is really impressive.
Walking through the
halls of this monastery
kind of reminds me of the Taj Mahal.
(cheerful music)
Finished walking around the cloister,
and they also have a couple of museums.
And now walking over to the
main entrance of the church.
It is huge on the inside,
and while the outside is
bright and white in color,
inside it has kind of dark
medieval but Manueline feel to it.
(cheerful music)
And this entrance doorway is huge,
and also the detail within
this doorway is amazing.
But I think the highlight
for me of visiting
Jerónimo’s Monastery
was that cloister area.
We’ve decided to catch
the bus back towards town
and gonna have lunch
at the TimeOut Market.
We’ve made it to Mercado de Ribeira,
which is also known as the
TimeOut Mercado in Lisboa.
And there is a traditional market,
fresh market, on the right hand side.
But, again, because it’s
Sunday, it’s all closed.
So we are just in the food court area.
Looks like there are a lot
of different food choices.
And this is one place
that is open on Sunday.
There’s a lot of variety to eat.
There’s a lot of, kind of,
modern twists, I think,
to food, as well as some gourmet food,
as well as some international food.
There’s even an Asian place with Pad Thai
and some Asian dishes.
There is pizza, there is Portuguese food.
But it has a, it does have
a very nice feeling to it.
It’s modern, it’s kind
of on the trendy side.
And I just ordered some
salted cod with garbanzo beans
and they give you a buzzer,
so it should buzz pretty soon
and I’ll have my plate of lunch.
I’m not sure if it’s actually
salt cod if it’s fresh cod.
And then on the bottom is
a puree of garbanzo beans
and I think that’s olive
oil surrounding it.
Oh, that tastes like hummus.
It’s a little bit salty,
and the garbanzo beans have
a little bit of a sour
taste in them as well,
maybe some lemon juice in there.
My very, yeah, it’s like
a dip of garbanzo beans.
And this is a pretty gourmet version.
The piece of fish is very good, though.
It’s flaky and moist.
It was very good, a little
bit on the plain side for me,
but I did enjoy that fish especially,
and the puree of garbanzo beans.
We are heading out of here,
and gonna try to take
the Metro to a museum
which is a little bit north
in the northern part, I think, of Lisbon.
And they shut at 6pm, it’s about 4pm now,
so I think we’ll be able
to get there in time.
We got off the Metro at
São Sebastião station,
and it should be a pretty
short walk from here.
And this is a famous art museum.
It’s called the Calouste
Gulbenkian Museum.
The really good news is on
Sunday that it’s free entrance.
So I just put my bag in the cloak room,
and we’re gonna walk around the museum.
(cheerful music)
This museum has a significant collection
of both Western and
ancient, even Egyptian art.
(cheerful music)
Portrait of an Old Man
by Rembrandt from 1645.
It was not too big of a museum,
but they did have some
very famous pieces of art.
And I enjoyed the paintings,
some of the paintings within the museum.
But the garden alone outside of the museum
is well worth a visit.
I think for the museum,
you definitely need
to really appreciate and enjoy art.
(cheerful music)
From the museum, we took the Metro
back to the Rossio Square area,
and we’re on our way to go eat dinner.
(cheerful music)
We’re walking through this
awesome little side neighborhood,
really narrow streets,
art, and it’s kind of like
little Chinatown, little
India, little Mozambique.
We’re looking for this one restaurant,
which I think we have come up to,
right behind me this grey building.
There’s no sign or anything.
And so it’s kind of a secret restaurant,
but I think it’s up there where the sheet
is hanging from the balcony.
Yeah, I hope we’re not showing up
to somebody’s house for dinner tonight.
Actually, that wouldn’t be a bad idea.
Oh, we came to the right restaurant.
And this is a Chinese restaurant.
There’s no sign from the outside.
And you just walk up the steps.
It doesn’t look, just looks like
somebody’s home in the neighborhood.
And then you come up
here and it just opens up
into there’s, it’s full of long tables,
and it definitely is a Chinese restaurant.
I was honestly wanting to eat some
traditional Portuguese food,
but I had some complications.
Number one my phone
died, with the Internet,
so I ran out of information.
And then I searched, I
literally searched through my
entire list of restaurants
and every Portuguese
traditional restaurant I wanted
to try was closed on Sunday.
So Ying and I decided to
make the executive decision
to have Chinese food for dinner.
And both of us are ready
for some Chinese food.
The menu is only in
Chinese and Portuguese.
So I’m using my Spanish to sort of
translate into Portuguese
to translate into English.
And so this one for sure,
Ying and I are gonna get
the sopa ácido picante.
Okay, actually I’m doing really poor
on my translation skills.
I’m kind of just writing down some dishes,
I’m kinda blindly choosing
a couple of dishes.
I’m gonna order the carne
de galinha com camarão.
I forgot to mention this before,
but we got a great table.
Right in front of the window,
the cool cool breeze is coming through.
You can see the Portuguese flag waving,
potted flowers and I think
Ying and I might’ve got
a little bit excited that
we’re having Chinese food,
and we ordered quite a,
the dishes are huge in portion size.
Ying just dished me a
bowl of hot and sour soup.
Oh, it’s hot.
Yeah, it’s…
There’s tofu in it, there are
little pieces of mushroom,
and I think egg drop as well.
Also, a plate of chow
mein has just arrived.
Egg, there’s some vegetables in here,
Lemme put some of this on my plate.
Also a side of chili sauce.
Oh ho ho!
It’s been too long.
The smokiness in that wok
hei flavor is fantastic.
And then this was one of the
dishes I think I guessed on.
But it’s chicken, there
are shrimp in here,
Is it chicken, or is this the pork dish?
I think it’s chicken.
And there are cucumbers
and peppers in here.
Let me stick this on my rice,
I gotta go for some more
of that chili sauce.
Oh yeah.
That’s salty.
I have to say, I had no idea
the portions were going to be
this big because the menu,
the prices are not high,
the prices are very very
reasonable for Europe.
But the dishes are huge, and
it’s only Ying and I eating.
But I’m not complaining.
This beef dish looks particularly awesome.
The beef on the top.
I think sichuan pepper and chilies
and on the bottom here
is cabbage, I think.
This smells and looks unbelievable.
Okay, I just gotta take
a bite immediately.
Oh, I think that’s all sichuan pepper.
Oh, yes!
That is sichuan pepper, it’s garlicky,
it’s filled with, like, garlic oil.
And chili oil, tender slices of beef.
Lots and lots of garlic in there.
Mmm, that’s, yeah.
I’m glad I wrote down this dish
without knowing what
it was, and ordered it.
This is the vegetable I ordered,
which I just wrote down, too.
And I think it’s jicima.
It wouldn’t have been my first choice
had I known what it is.
I would’ve liked more of
a green leafy vegetable,
but that’s okay.
Mmm, mmmmm.
That is jicima, but it does have
a really wonderful smokey flavor again.
I actually forgot all about these
because they came last,
and like five minutes after
all the rest of the food.
But we also got the fried dumplings.
Oh, and these look fantastic.
Look how big this plate is, though.
There’s so many of them.
A dip in vinegar, I think.
Those are hot and fresh.
Filled with minced meat, they’re garlicky.
They’re crispy and oily.
That’s wonderful.
Ying are stumbling down the staircase
out of this restaurant.
That meal absolutely hit the spot.
That beef dish, in
particular, was fantastic.
What a wonderful little
family-run restaurant.
I think within this lovely
little neighborhood,
this is the perfect place
to end today’s vlog.
Ying and I are walking back
to the hotel from here.
Thank you all very much
for watching today’s video.
Please remember to give it a
thumbs-up if you enjoyed it.
And also make sure you subscribe
for lots more food and travel videos.
And I will see you on the next video.
Good night from Lisbon.
I had already ended the vlog for today,
but Ying and I are just
leisurely strolling home,
and I came across this place
that I think I remember
Anthony Bourdain having a drink
here in one of his episodes
that I watched a couple years back.
I think it’s a cherry
liquor, and then you bring,
you just walk in there,
it’s only take-away,
and then he pours you a little cup
and puts in a little, puts
in a berry at the bottom.
Wow, that’s strong.
It’s sweet and strong
and I think it is cherry.
It does have like a fruity,
a fruity sweet cherry taste to it.
Ooh, yeah, that is strong.
But that is very good.
This is a real legendary place, though.
This is really going to be the
conclusion for today’s video.
And yeah, we had, I had
no plans to stop there,
but I just remember seeing it
in Anthony Bourdain’s Lisbon video.
Cheers to everyone and
goodnight from Lisbon, Portugal.


  1. Ying is so adorable. She is my favorite part of all of Mark's videos. She's always smiling and on the go. Great video as always!

  2. you can sure there'd be a Chinese restaurant that's open on sunday. that's why jews eat Chinese food on Christmas. used to be the only restaurants open on Christmas. wow the coffee looks awfully small.

  3. glad you didnt end up like bruce lee did in Rom?…ordering from a menu he cant read 20 dishes…outcome: 20 large bowls of soup…lol

  4. Mark Lisbon have some amazing croissaints in Belém, the name is " O careca " you really should try it. Thanks for the visit 🙂

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