Breakfast in LYARI, KARACHI – Street Food in Former Danger Zone in Pakistan

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– Blue, we have pink, yellow.
– As-salamu alaykum.
(speaking in foreign language)
– What’s the name of
the area of town again?
– It’s called Lyari.
– Lyari.
And this is, you can also
call it mini Balochistan
because so many people so many
our Baloch friends live here
and this is a very vibrant area.
People from this area are very hospitable,
very great people, yeah.
– And Balochistan is the
province of Pakistan which is
just North of Sindh,
North of Karachi, right?
Along the coast line and
then on the border of Iran.
It’s a province that we weren’t
able to visit on this trip
because we ran out of time
but that’s why we wanted
to visit this area.
This is like mini
Balochistan, within Karachi.
And so we’re just going to
walk around a little bit.
There’s one famous street
which is very colorful.
It’s called Kiran Gali,
it’s very colorful it’s very
picturesque and so that’s
what we’re gonna walk down
and just kind of see what happens here.
Lyari Town is one of the 18
constituent towns of Karachi,
known as little Balochistan.
Just a few years ago,
Lyari was a war zone.
Ruled by gangs and known for
its brutal violence and unrest,
but recently things have changed.
We wanted to visit Lyari for
one, because I didn’t have
a chance to visit Balochistan
on my trip to Pakistan.
And for two, in our very
short visit, to share a story
of people, hope, and
those making a difference.
(car honks)
I believe the old name is
called Baghdadi street but now,
it’s called Kiran Gali street.
And it’s a colorful alley, only
walking and motorcycle lane.
But you just see the buildings.
They’ve taken an initiative to take pride
in their neighborhood, to color,
to paint beautiful bright colors.
It’s very colorful, very
vibrant and beautiful actually.
So we’re just going to
walk down the street.
(upbeat music)
(horn honk)
And he has this bicycle
pump attached to a horn.
He pumps the bicycle pump
and that just blows the horn.
So that lets the entire
community here know
that he’s selling bread for the day.
Okay we’re jumping into a rickshaw.
We’re on our way to this food street
which I think is called Mombasa street.
Rickshaw is the best way to get there.
Oh he came with us too.
I think we met him in
the colorful neighborhood
and he’s joined.
How are you guys back there?
– We are the Lyari boys today.
– [Host] The Lyari boys.
(upbeat electronic music)
(car honk)
(cars driving by)
It’s great when we just
casually drive down the wrong
side of the road, intentionally.
(laughs)
You just gotta be careful
you don’t hang out too far.
Or you’re, whoa.
(upbeat techno music)
Hello!
– Hi
– Yes, just on their way to school.
Oh man this is an amazing little ride
through mini Balochistan.
Okay, rickshaw rides are
always fun and entertaining.
We got off in a more
busy area of this region
or of this district and we’re gonna,
there’s a busy food stall
that we’re gonna check out.
Whoa look at these pomegranate seeds.
(cars honk)
(cards sputtering)
(upbeat music)
– [Host] As-salamu alaykum
– Salaam (speaks foreign language)
– [Host] Yeah this is the spot.
– (speaks foreign language)
(kitchen utensils clanking)
(yelling)
(car engines sputtering)
– We stopped at a stall,
a little restaurant
on the side of the road and
this is a very popular spot.
Lots of people are eating breakfast here.
(speaking foreign language)
– He’s serving a local breakfast
but in this area of mini Balochistan.
So he has channa which is the chickpeas.
And then he also has
Paya which is a cow foot
in this version it’s cow foot stew.
And he’s about to serve us.
(upbeat music)
(utensils clanking)
Nice, they put it on top.
(cars honking and driving past)
– (speaking foreign language)
All the best!
Nice, nalli.
Nalli Paya.
– [Host] Nalli Paya.
– Nalli Paya,
all the best.
(speaking in foreign language)
(laughing)
(speaking in foreign language)
– [Host] Rubber band.
(laughing)
Too fast, too fast man.
(laughing)
So much style.
He’s so fast, he has so
much style, so much skill.
What a friendly amazing man.
Yes man, wow, very good.
And I think he just hooked
us up with a special.
The very special, the very special.
And he’s like singing.
Wow.
What a master, another
just ultimate, skillful,
wow
that looks awesome.
He made us three different dishes
and they’re like special dishes.
One is the egg with the
channa, with the chickpeas.
One is the Nalli which is the bone marrow.
Which he took that bone
and I didn’t even know
what he was gonna do
and he just, he hit it.
He punched out the marrow into the plate.
And then one kind of daal.
And this is something
I haven’t had so far,
just a loaf of bread, whoa,
very crusty loaf of bread.
I’m gonna try the Paya
first and I don’t even know
what that, oh that looks like tendon.
That looks like tendon and that looks like
a lump of skin and then
the marrow should just be
floating around all in here.
I should grab whatever that chunk is.
Oh wow,
that’s oily and meaty.
Oh and there’s a little
bit of channa in here too.
Whatever I picked up
looks pretty gelatinous.
(upbeat music)
Gelatinous would be the
way to describe that,
and I got a little like
toe bone in that bite.
That’s good though, you can
taste the bread just absorbs
all that Desi ghee and that flavor.
You can taste the chilis
in there, it’s mild
but it’s like a very
warming, very kind of oily,
very heavy, very rich.
And you can really taste the ghee in that.
Okay, next I’m gonna try
the chickpeas and the egg.
Break into it, oh here’s a nice little,
oh there’s a chili in there too.
Okay, grab that chili, whole chili
with the egg with some
of that chickpea stew.
I just removed that stem.
That’s a good combination because
you’ve got the creamy yolk
plus the creaminess of the chickpeas.
And again, the ghee wrapping it up.
That one is like a classic breakfast.
It’s just like warm and comforting.
Okay, the final dish we
got is a type of daal.
And again you can see that ghee.
And I’m gonna dip this
into the chutney provided.
It looks like a kind of a
watery, kind of yogurty, chutney
with a little bit of herb in it.
The chutney kind of brightens it up.
Kind of refreshes the mouth.
Along with the richer stew.
(upbeat music)
Good?
– This is very crispy bread.
– [Host] Yeah, the bread
is nice and crispy.
– Nice, nice and crispy.
– One shot from far.
Shukriya, shukriya.
– All the best.
– [Host] Thank you man,
shukriya.
That was a delicious breakfast.
He’s such a friendly man.
Again he did not want to
charge us for breakfast.
And that just shows his
kindness, his hospitality.
But yeah.
What an amazing place, a little stall.
And that’s a heavy and
rich, rich breakfast.
This area, especially formerly,
was known as not a very safe area.
Actually quite a
dangerous area in Karachi.
It’s an area that’s very friendly.
It’s an area that has a lot of character.
And it represents
Balochistan, which is a region
of Pakistan that’s very less
traveled, very less visited.
And so a part of the reason
that Ali and I wanted
to come check this neighborhood
out and just explore it
a little bit is just
to show that the people
are so welcoming, so friendly.
And that things are really
improving in this neighborhood,
in this community, within Karachi.
The city within a city in Karachi.
And just being able to
see the colorful street.
People taking initiative to take pride
in their neighborhood.
And then the amazing man who we met
who just served us breakfast.
Thanks Ali and Farouk.
– Even for me it was first time to Lyari
and I think it’s amazing.
This place has a very rich
and distinctive character.
And I think everybody,
especially people from Karachi
you should come here, yeah.
– Cool.

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